The issue is for me there is no way to fully know if the new SC will have the updated coupler. I showed him the service bulletin and he confirm my car is still under warrenty. I stopped by my local chevy dealer where I've had my other cars worked on. They might deny the warranty because of your mods also. I'd rather just do the solid coupler but it's a thought. I believe sawing it off might very well eliminate the metal chip problem with the spring isolator and might quiet down the ratteling. No big deal to me.Įdit: Where the shaft sticks out isn't needed, don't worry about it being chewed up, it could be sawed off even if you have the new solid coupler in there. Similarly I did already slight grinding on the front of the SC to access a bolt for the fuel rail. Akin to cutting an access hole for the fuel pump but less drastic. If it is a museum car I understand not bending a couple tiny firewall lips, that but for a driver I think it won't even be very noticeable and worth the slight damage. I'll do that, sounds like old days when you took a baseball bat to bend the inner fender metal lips to clear the wide tires. I have read that people bend the firewall slightly to get at the rear bolts. no one will mess up your low mi Camaro either mechanically or joy riding or dirty up the interior. it sounds like you feel confident in being able to do it yourself If I were you I'd commit to the replacement myself of the coupler because It is reasonable in the big picture for people that go into the engine and mess it up then bring to the dealer to repair free. We don't need to argue amongst ourselves if this is a fair policy. If you open up the supercharger and then take it to the dealer and they see it was "worked on" from the bolt head scratches etc, they do not have to warranty it. They used to have a sign in the fragile section of stores "If you break it you bought it". The better techs at the dealer also tell me that's how they pull the SC.įorgot you need to remove the trans cross member and the exhaust support bracket to get the drive line stretch. I did this for changing my clutch/flywheel, but noticed that it lowered the lid by 4 inches where I could easily get access if I needed. I removed one of the fronts just so I knew how much travel I had. You loosen the front two about an inch and then then the rears out while the cradle is supported by a mono jack. I did this on my front struts.Īlso on your next post about removing the lid, if you have access to a lift or ramps you can drop the cradle which is 4 bolts. They are just gonna write it up and bill the hours to GM. If you are comfortable taking the lid and snout off, I would find a reasonable dealer service manager take the car to him and as long as they agree it should be replaced I would offer to take it off and do a core exchange. Otherwise I'll just install the new solid isolator and be done with it. If I see a lot of metal shavings then I'll just put it back on and let the dealer replace the whole SC per the bulletin. Well let's see what I can find once I remove the shout.
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